Looking down onto the Eben Ice Caves

The Rock River Canyon Ice Caves, much better known as the Eben Ice Caves, remain a mystery to many.

It seems that this cool little natural wonder of the Upper Peninsula isn’t frequented as much as it could be largely due to the fact that many people just aren’t quite sure how to get there.  Well, I’ll cover the whole “how to get there” conundrum (from the North, from the South, sideways, backwards…etc.) in another post. Maybe I’ll even throw up a video. (I do have a link to a map below, though, so I’m not totally leaving you hangin’.)

For now, though, I’ll give you the basics.

The Eben Ice caves are part of the 4,000 plus acre Rock River Wilderness area of the Hiawatha National Forest. I’ve never visited the area during the summer (though I should, and so should you), but in the winter it’s a nice way to spend a morning or afternoon. Sixty-foot tall icicles are always cool.

If you’ve never been to the Eben Ice Caves, you’re experience will likely go something like this:

You drive far out into the Upper Peninsula countryside, down a sometimes-muddy road, and park at the edge of a farmer’s field. Yellow signs labeled “Ice Caves” help point the way.

After parking at the edge of the aforementioned field, you walk over the field and through the woods (ha ha ha) to the Eben Ice Caves. It’s about a half mile in.

Unless the area has just recently received some snowfall, the trail will be packed down by the many visitors who came before you. The hike to the ice caves is about a half mile from where you park, and though the first section is pretty flat, as you get closer to the caves there are some pretty steep ups and downs. And as you may imagine, once you get there, the ice caves are, well… icy.

To that effect I’d recommend wearing boots with nice, grippy soles at the very minimum, and preferably wearing some sort of ice cleats on the bottoms of your shoes.

A group of friends and I recently embarked on a little afternoon trip to the Eben Ice Caves and really enjoyed it. After a slight wrong turn, we found our way, parked by the field and hiked in. There were probably ten or fifteen other cars there when we pulled in. It was early afternoon.

I’d guess it took our group about fifteen minutes or so to get to the caves, as we were taking it slow and enjoying the scenery. And the way the sunlight cast the bare birch tree’s shadows over fluffy mounds of snow made me want to stop to photograph everything, but I eventually made my way to the caves. Gorgeous area though.

Let me pause here to note – once again – that you’ll probably enjoy the experience a little more if you do have some sort of cleats on your shoes or boots. I didn’t, and it was slippery as all hell in some spots on the trail. (Note to self for next year – buy ice cleats.)

At any rate, once we got there the group dispersed to explore behind the giant walls of ice, take photos, or just stand back and observe one of the Upper Peninsula’s many natural wonders.

I walked/slipped/slid behind the ice to get some photos and could have hung out there for a while. It’s really something to see, much like the ice curtains off Sand  Point Road in Pictured Rocks (link). The difference is that here there’s enough room to get behind the ice.

We probably spent a half hour or so playing around the caves, then climbed up above the ice and made our way back along another section of the trail. This part of the trail was a much easier hike than the way we took in. (If you want to take this way in, go right when the trail forks at the “Rock River Canyon Ice Caves” sign.

After our hike, my wife and I drove just a few miles from the parking area to have lunch at the Rock River Café, which was awesome. I’d highly recommend that you check it out on your way to or from the caves.

Bottom line: The Eben Ice Caves are one of the Upper Peninsula’s best-kept secrets, but they shouldn’t be. Get out there and check them out!

How to get there? To view a map of the Eben Ice Caves on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

To view more photos of the Eben Ice Caves, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Eben Ice Caves” album.

The meandering trail.

Canyon Falls

Some of the best things to do in the Upper Peninsula are those subtle little surprises you never knew existed. Take Canyon Falls, for instance.

Now let me just say that Canyon Falls is no secret. It’s in the waterfall books and it’s on my favorite waterfall website. But if you aren’t specifically seeking out Upper Peninsula waterfalls, you’d likely just drive right past it.

Who knows, maybe you already have?

To get to the falls you need to take a little bit of a walk down Canyon Falls Trail. And to get to Canyon Falls trail, you need to pull off an otherwise uneventful stretch of U.S. 41 south of Baraga, along a big stretch of what most people would call “a whole lot of nothing,” and into what looks to be a standard Michigan rest stop.

Which, of course, is what I did one day as I was driving back from the Keweenaw. Truthfully, I just needed to get out and stretch so I pulled over. (Okay, and maybe nature had called, too) Right about then I noticed a sign that said “Canyon Falls,” along with a trail map and what appeared to be a trailhead.

“Why not?” I thought, so I grabbed my camera and went for a walk.

After a few hundred yards of walking, I thought maybe I should have actually taken a look at that map. The beginning Canyon Falls Trail meanders through a patch of woods with no water in sight. (There were no other people in sight either.)

Not long after that, a river came into view. And of course, the trail made it’s way to the river and then traced the riverbank from that point on.

I walked a little further and saw some small rapids. “Are these the falls?” I thought. I kept walking.

Mind you, I had never heard of Canyon Falls. I didn’t know what it looked like, I didn’t know how far down the trail it was, and I didn’t meet anyone on the trail who I could ask.

Canyon Falls, a fifteen foot drop.

I kept walking and sure enough, the trail does come to a lovely end by this cool fifteen-foot drop of the river called Canyon Falls. And as you might expect, just beyond the falls is a beautiful little Canyon, right at a bend in the river. I snapped a few photos and made my way back to the car, very happy that I took the time to stop and explore.

Now that Canyon Falls is no longer a mystery to you, you’ll have to find your own subtle Upper Peninsula surprise. The next time you see one of those little signs that call out some park, waterfall or trail, don’t be a afraid to stop and explore. Chances are you’ll be happy you did.

To view more photos of Canyon Falls, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Canyon Falls” album. (You’ll need to the “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom line: A visit to Canyon Falls is a excellent stop on what could otherwise be a very long stretch of U.S. 41.

How to get there? To see Canon Falls on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Other things to note: For more about Canyon Falls (and even more photos) check out the Canyon Falls page on Gowaterfalling.com.

The original bar, built in 1905

A step into the Michigan House Café & Brewery in Calumet is a step back in time.

A gorgeous 19^th century mural covers the ceiling above the bar, the bar itself looks as though it’s been there for over a century (and in fact, it has) and just about every other detail has kept its original charm, back from when Joseph Bosch of Bosch Brewing built the place in 1905, when the Keweenaw was flush with money and thirsty miners.

I’d actually never set foot in Calumet until a trip to Copper Harbor this spring brought my wife and I through the area. And am I glad we stopped at this place.

I could go on for pages about all the cool architecture, great little businesses and other fun stuff we discovered in Calumet (and I will, in other blog posts), but for now let’s focus on the Michigan House.

I’ve been here twice so far to date, and the current owners and staff have been super friendly both times. I’ve tried all the beer they had available and I liked them all. Though if you’re not a fan of craft beer they have a full bar in addition to a good list of popular beers.

The Kalua Pig Sandwich

The food was surprisingly awesome. After seeing how well the building has been kept up I expected the food to be decent. I didn’t’ expect it to be so mouthwateringly good that I sometimes get the urge to drive two and a half hours to Calumet just for a burger.

I’ve had both The “Gipp Burger” (named after George Gipp (aka “The Gipper”) who grew up a few blocks away in Laurium, and the “Kalua Pig Sandwich.”  Both were excellent, but I think the Gipp Burger is my go to at the Michigan House.

Friends and family I’ve dined with here have had everything from their spinach and artichoke dip to the Cedar Planked Trout. Accolades from everyone, I tell you. And for my vegetarian readers, they offer a walnut burger as a substitute for any of their regular burgers.

Go for the history, stay for the food and beer, and come back because everyone there is just so damn nice.

To view more photos of The Michigan House Café & Brewery, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Michigan House Café & Brewery” album. (You’ll need to the “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom Line: The Michigan House Café & Brewery has become one of my regular stops on my way up to the Keweenaw. You should check it out. You’ll thank me.

Location: 300 Sixth Street Calumet, MI 49913

Website: http://www.michiganhousecafe.com

Phone: (906) 337-1910

Previous << Tour the Historic Ghost Town of Fayette

The Company Store

Fayette historic state park is truly something to behold. Once a bustling company town at the tip of the Garden Peninsula, the well-preserved buildings have now been standing for nearly 150 years, and it’s a wonderful place to spend an afternoon.

After the iron operation that created the town shut down in the late 1800’s, Fayette passed through several phases before being snatched up by the State of Michigan and turned into an awesome state park. The park rests on one of the most scenic parts of Lake Michigan’s shoreline (think huge limestone bluffs and rocky beaches) and there’s a nice campground right there for those who wish to stay a while. It’s one of the finer points of the Upper Peninsula.

And if you’re hungry (or thirsty) while in the area, Sherry’s Port Bar is a neat little family friendly spot for a meal or a beer. I’ve heard they have a good all-you-can-eat whitefish fish fry on Friday’s during the summer season, and it’s within walking distance of the Fayette campground.

My wife and I drove over to Fayette with our daughter this summer. It was only my second visit to the place, the first being a sixth grade field trip over twenty years ago, so my memories of the place were a little fuzzy. Fond, but fuzzy. So here’s how it went down…

Limestone Bluff at Fayette

We breezed through the admissions area (thanks to our Michigan recreation passport), parked in a spacious parking lot and made our way down a little hill into the main welcome center. Guided tours go out every half hour, I was told, and the next one would be starting in about five minutes.

A few minutes later, we were being led through the town by an enthusiastic college student who seemed to have a pretty comprehensive knowledge of the place. She was super friendly and gave a short but informative tour that ran through the entire history of the town, from it’s beginnings in 1867 as a company town to it’s present date status as a state park.

After the tour we were free to roam about the town on our own. We spent an hour or so poking our noses into well marked historic buildings and reading interpretive signs about the town’s past, but could have just as easily spent half a day here. There’s a scenic overlook trail, a souvenir shop that sells ice cream, and plenty of open space near the harbor that would be a great place for a picnic, tossing Frisbee around or just hanging out for a while.

The Company Hotel

We had packed a lunch but left it in our car, so we ended up dining at a picnic table alongside the parking lot. Next time we’ll definitely bring our lunch down near the water. Also on our next visit, we’ll probably try to allow a whole day just for the Garden Peninsula. In addition to Fayette, there are art galleries, wineries and a cool little harbor at the very tip of the peninsula (More write ups on all of this to come) so it’d be easy to blow a day here and enjoy every minute of it.

Want to see more photos of Fayette? (Including shots from the scenic overlook trail) Click here to visit my Facebook page then browse to the “Fayette Historic Ghost Town” album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already.)

Bottom Line: The historic ghost town of Fayette is definitely one of my “must see” things in the U.P. It’s cool even if you’re not a history geek, trust me. And the scenery is awesome.

Other things to note: Open daily 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. mid-May through mid-June and Labor Day through mid-October; 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. mid-June through Labor Day. And it looks like some of the trails are available for cross country skiing in the winter.

Location: To see Fayette’s Location on my Map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Websites:

U.P. Travel’s Fayette Page

Fayette State Park Page

Previous << #30 – Dinner with a View at L’Attitude Cafe & Bistro

The Pine Mountain Ski Jumps are a world class-sporting event that take place every winter right here in the U.P.

Technically called the FIS Continental Cup and sponsored by the Kiwanas Club (link) “the jumps” are a big highlight of the winter. The event usually takes place smack in the middle of February, so it breaks up the winter nicely. (ie. It gives you something to look forward to in February, when there’s not a whole lot going on. And then after that, hey, March is just around the corner and you can almost hear the birds chirping.)

The ski jumps are basically a huge party. Around 5,000 people bundle up and hang out in Iron Mountain, MI to watch Olympic caliber ski jumpers launch themselves off Giant Pine Mountain. Beer is consumed, brats and burgers are grilled, and when the wind is right, there’s even some ski jumping. (inside joke)

I’ve had two very distinct types of experiences at the jumps.

1. Partying. We get a group of people, a grill and a bunch of food and beer, bring a portable fire pit, and have a party outside in the middle of winter. It’s a blast. Oh, and there’s ski jumping too. We honk our car horns when someone has a nice jump and then give random high fives to strangers.

2. Spectating. (aka – “Not partying”) A couple of years ago, only one of my friends was able to make it up for the jumps. He happens to be a photographer, so he and I made taking photos more of the focus and stayed away from the booze. And you know what?  It was brilliant!

The Upper Peninsula’s crisp, clean winter air is awesome if you’re dressed for it. We walked around, took photos of the jumpers, caught whiffs of other people’s campfires and still made time to grill out. Oh, and then you have the stairs (link).

Climbing the Pine Mountain Stairs isn’t the easiest thing in the world, and after a few beers, it’s not a lot of fun. Conversely, if you’re sober you can just blow right by all the people who’ve had a few and get a little exercise while your at it. (And in effect, more of that crisp winter air in your lungs. I swear, crisp U.P. winter air is like a drug in and off itself.)

To see more photos of the Pine Mountain Ski Jumps, click here to access my Facebook page and then browse to the “Pine Mountain Ski Jumps” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom line: The Pine Mountain Ski Jumps are absolutely one of the best winter events we have here in the Upper Peninsula. It would behoove you to check it out!

Website: Kiwanis Ski Club

Other things to note: You need to buy a “button” to gain admission to the jumps, and they cost around $20. Save yourself around $5 per button and buy them a few days before the jumps.

Map: To see Pine Mountain Ski Jump’s location on my map of the U.P., click here.

Bond falls is one of the top waterfalls in the U.P., as judged both by how awesome the thing is and how many people were there the late September day my family and I visited.

It wasn’t nearly as crowded as Tahquamenon Falls, but I was still surprised at how popular it seemed to be. It’s way out in the Western Upper Peninsula, after all, near Watersmeet (home of the Nimrods) and Paulding (home of the Paulding Mystery Light).

At any rate, I feel like the folks over at GoWaterfalling.com have done an excellent job describing Bond Falls so I’m not going to recreate the wheel. Here’s what they had to say about one of the coolest waterfalls in the Upper Peninsula:

“This is the best single waterfall in the Western U.P, and the second best waterfall in Michigan. If you are in the Western U.P., possibly on your way to or from the Porcupines or Copper Harbor, this is a definitely worth a stop.

Bond Falls is in the western U.P. on Bond Falls Rd, east of Pauding MI. This is the most impressive waterfall in Michigan with the possible exception of Tahquamenon Falls. The main drop is 40 feet high and 100+ feet wide. Above the main falls are a series of cascades and rapids that must drop a total of 20 feet.

The water level is controlled by a dam, and a steady flow over the falls is maintained for scenic reasons. Of course during the spring melt the flow is much higher.

Bond Falls is a Michigan State Scenic Site. The site was renovated around 2003. The old parking area was upstream of the falls, and a steep concrete stairway led to the base of the falls. The new parking area is near the base of the falls, and a level boardwalk leads you to prime views of the falls. The area is not quite as wild looking as it once was, but it is accessible to everyone. The trail on the east side of the falls is still wild with some steep rocky climbs. There are other trails that go off into the woods, and there are campsites nearby.

In addition to being very picturesque, this is a very popular waterfall, and unless you visit early in the morning or in winter, you are going to have a lot of company.”

Well, there you have it. If I would have read their entry before my visit I probably would have expected the company!

To see more photos of Bond Falls, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Bond Falls” album.

Bottom Line: If you like waterfalls and you like the Upper Peninsula, Bond Falls is an absolute must see.

Map: To see Bond Falls’ location on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.