“The Fort” at Fort Wilkins

The Basics

If you want to camp in Copper Harbor, you’ve got two options, the state owned Fort Wilkins State Park, or the privately owned Lake Fanny Hooe Resort & Campground.

Both campgrounds offer modern camping with electricity, showers and more. I’ll focus on Fort Wilkins State Park for this post and will cover the Lake Fany Hooe Resort in another post.

Either place would be a great jumping off point for exploring Brockway Mountain, biking or kayaking with the Keweenaw Adventure Company, sampling some beer from Brickside Brewery, or taking advantage of the dozens of other cool things to do in the Keweenaw.

Fort Wilkins is a pretty cool campground because it’s part of the Fort Wilkins Historic Complex, a well maintained nineteenth century military outpost. Many of the fort’s buildings are open for exploration, complete with recreations of what life was like back when the fort was fully operational.

If you peruse the grounds and read the signs, you’ll learn the following:

1. The winters were harsh, and pretty much no one wanted to be there.
2. Many of the soldiers were immigrants.
3. One soldier was meant to be tried for “General Worthlessness” and “Habitual Drunkenness”, but he escaped. (Go figure.)

I laughed out loud at that last one.

And a Little More Detail…

Lake Fanny Hooe. Great for paddling or fishing.

The campground is situated on the north bank of Lake Fanny Hooe, a long, skinny (and deep) lake that’s just a few hundred yards inland from Lake Superior. It’s a great lake for paddling, or fishing if you’re so inclined.

Fort Wilkins also has a good sized playground for the kids, and some nice walking and biking paths around the campground. This is a super family friendly place. Heck, they even have on site laundry!

While there are a few campsites with some nice elbow room (site #10, for example), many of Fort Wilkins’ campsites are packed together like sardines. When my wife and I visited there early this summer, the campground was only at about twenty or thirty percent capacity, which meant that everyone had plenty of room. Breathing room is good!

However, if you’re there during the peak of summer when they’re closer to full capacity, I can easily imagine being woken up by the sound of some guy snoring in his tent the next site over. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs.

I’m told that they always fill up Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day weekend, and they’re often nearly full most weekends of the summer.

I should also note that Fort Wilkins has two “loops.” The “east loop” is a little more open and the “west loop” has more trees between campsites. Also, the west loop currently has Wi-Fi. Most of the sites in both loops are close together, but hey, if you’re camping in Copper Harbor, life is good!

Here’s one small section of the “West Loop” campground

All in all, I’m sure we’ll camp here again, but next time I’ll try to get camp site #10 or one closer to the water. Next time we’ll also bring the kayaks!

In Summary

Bottom line: Fort Wilkins Historic State Park is a unique place to camp and a great base for exploring Copper Harbor. However, the camp sites are really packed in there.

Address: 15223 U. S. Highway 41 Copper Harbor, MI 49918

Phone: (906) 289-4215

Other Things to Note: There’s an excellent beginners bike trail (The “Fanny Hooe Trail”) that connects Fort Wilkins to Copper Harbor. It’s pretty short and a great way to get to and from “town” if you don’t want to drive.  Two cabins are also available for rent within the park.

To view more photos of Fort Wilkins Historic State Park and Campground, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Fort Wilkins State Park” album.

The original bar, built in 1905

A step into the Michigan House Café & Brewery in Calumet is a step back in time.

A gorgeous 19^th century mural covers the ceiling above the bar, the bar itself looks as though it’s been there for over a century (and in fact, it has) and just about every other detail has kept its original charm, back from when Joseph Bosch of Bosch Brewing built the place in 1905, when the Keweenaw was flush with money and thirsty miners.

I’d actually never set foot in Calumet until a trip to Copper Harbor this spring brought my wife and I through the area. And am I glad we stopped at this place.

I could go on for pages about all the cool architecture, great little businesses and other fun stuff we discovered in Calumet (and I will, in other blog posts), but for now let’s focus on the Michigan House.

I’ve been here twice so far to date, and the current owners and staff have been super friendly both times. I’ve tried all the beer they had available and I liked them all. Though if you’re not a fan of craft beer they have a full bar in addition to a good list of popular beers.

The Kalua Pig Sandwich

The food was surprisingly awesome. After seeing how well the building has been kept up I expected the food to be decent. I didn’t’ expect it to be so mouthwateringly good that I sometimes get the urge to drive two and a half hours to Calumet just for a burger.

I’ve had both The “Gipp Burger” (named after George Gipp (aka “The Gipper”) who grew up a few blocks away in Laurium, and the “Kalua Pig Sandwich.”  Both were excellent, but I think the Gipp Burger is my go to at the Michigan House.

Friends and family I’ve dined with here have had everything from their spinach and artichoke dip to the Cedar Planked Trout. Accolades from everyone, I tell you. And for my vegetarian readers, they offer a walnut burger as a substitute for any of their regular burgers.

Go for the history, stay for the food and beer, and come back because everyone there is just so damn nice.

To view more photos of The Michigan House Café & Brewery, click here to visit my Facebook page and browse to the “Michigan House Café & Brewery” album. (You’ll need to the “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom Line: The Michigan House Café & Brewery has become one of my regular stops on my way up to the Keweenaw. You should check it out. You’ll thank me.

Location: 300 Sixth Street Calumet, MI 49913

Website: http://www.michiganhousecafe.com

Phone: (906) 337-1910

Previous << Tour the Historic Ghost Town of Fayette

You'll see this sign from the logging road

Rising abruptly from the shoreline of Lake Superior, Bare Bluff is the most prominent landmark of the Keweenaw’s south shore.

At a peak height of nearly 600 feet above the water, The “Russell and Miriam Grinnell Memorial Nature Sanctuary at Bare Bluff” is one of the Keweenaw’s most scenic hikes. With no disrespect to the Grinnells, for brevity’s sake I’ll refer to it as “Bare Bluff” here.

Bare Bluff is undoubtedly one of the coolest hikes in the Upper Peninsula, but it’s also one of the most remote. The parking area lies several miles down a gravel road, and the trailhead begins another three quarters of a mile from there.

The hike itself is a three mile loop, and recent improvements have dropped the grade to no more than 15%, down from over 30% as it was in the past, which basically means if you’re in decent shape you can probably hack it.

Much of the trail looks like this.

However, as with all backcountry adventures any medical help would take a while to reach you should you need it. And this hike includes dangerously high cliffs, so exercise extreme caution as you stroll along the trail. A slip and fall here could mean no more birthdays for you.

My first encounter with Bare Bluff went something like this:

My friend Jim and I decided to go camping in the Keweenaw for the weekend, and one of the first orders of business was to hike Bare Bluff. Well, it’s not the easiest thing in the world to find if you haven’t been there before and don’t have directions. We hadn’t printed off directions (d’oh!) but Jim had been there before, albeit years prior.

So after driving a few miles on Smith Fisheries Road (which was wasn’t too rough on our trip, but I hear that can change by the season), we found the Bare Bluff parking area, clearly marked with Michigan Nature Association signs.

We parked, hiked in about three quarters of a mile to the actual trailhead, and then ventured up the trail.

Here’s something I’d like to make clear. The hike is a loop, and you can go either way.

Counterclockwise = Difficult

Clockwise = Easier

This is the spot where things "open up" and you get a peek at the bluff.

We hiked the loop in a counterclockwise direction, which led us along the base of Bare Bluff, and then up a rock slide to the summit. This section could be difficult for some people.

If I were to bring, say, my Grandpa on this hike, I’d hike the loop in a clockwise direction up to the summit, then backtrack to the parking area, completely missing the “rock slide” stretch of trail. Got it?

Counterclockwise = Difficult

Clockwise = Easier

Technical details aside, this is truly a spectacular hike. The scents were intoxicating and the scenery was astounding.

After a hiking under an evergreen canopy for a few minutes, the canopy suddenly opened up and out of nowhere Bare Bluff rose up from the trail, easily a couple hundred feet above us.

After a brief photo session we continued along the base of the bluff to the aforementioned “rock slide” section of the trail. It was a fun, difficult and rewarding stretch of trail that led us to the summit.

Looking north toward the tip of the Keweenaw

And whether or not you’re religious, the summit at Bare Bluff is just one of those spots where you can’t help but feel connected to something a little bigger than yourself. It has a sense of gravity to it that makes you want to plop your butt down for a while and enjoy the view.

To the north lies a large swath of thick, vivid green forest. And to the south lies the Caribbean-like Bete Grise beach (pronounced BEY-duh-GREE). It’s quite the place.

Shortly after we sat down to enjoy the view, three peregrine falcons appeared and began battling each other in mid-air, yet below us. We sat for a good twenty minutes, our gaze shifting between the rare birds of prey and the eye-candy panoramic view.

Then we started our decent. The decent was easy, and this is the section of the trail (that is, the clockwise option) I’d recommend taking on the way up if you want the easier route.

I had no idea what to expect at Bare Bluff as I’d never even heard of it before that trip, but I can now safely say I’ll be back regularly (with my family in tow) for years to come. The Keweenaw has been full of surprises for me so far, all of them pleasant.

To see more photos of Bare Bluff, click here to access my Facebook page and then and then browse to the “Bare Bluff” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom line: Bare Bluff is one of the coolest hikes in the Upper Peninsula. I’d highly recommend it.

Time required: A couple hours to half a day depending on whether or not you decide to pack a lunch and how fast you move.

Other things to note: The Michigan Nature association has a great little brochure specific to Bare Bluff on their web site. To view the Bare Bluff brochure (which includes driving directions), click here.

Website: http://www.michigannature.org/home/sancts/grinnell/grinnell.shtml

How to get there: (From the Bare Bluff brochure mentioned above) Drive north from Houghton on US 41. Eleven miles south of Copper Harbor, turn right at the sign for Lac La Belle and Bohemia Ski Area. Drive about 5 miles to Lac La Belle, turn left on the Bete Gris Road and drive about 3 miles to the Smith Fisheries Road (unpaved) and turn left. Travel another 2.25 miles, bearing to the right, to the parking area marked with an MNA sign. The first half-mile of the hike is a logging road which takes you to the Bare Bluff trailhead sign. This is a loop trail and you may choose to hike in either direction.

Map: To see Bare Bluff’s location on my map of the U.P., click here.

Next up! Thing #17 – Walk the Beach at Whitefish Point

The original lighthouse was build in 1851. This is "the new one."

I thought our stop at the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse was going to be “just another lighthouse tour.” It turned out to be an unexpected surprise.

It’s a well-kept lighthouse, decked out with many of the things you’d expect to find in the 19^th century (a phonograph, books… etc.) but this place has appeal beyond the usual lighthouse allure.  This old outpost also boasts a scenic overlook (the “Broken Thumb Observation Deck”) and three small museums that showcase different facets of the Keweenaw’s rich history.

My wife, daughter and I arrived before the lighthouse opened for the day, so we decided to hang out at the overlook for a while to take in the lovely Lake Superior shoreline. After that we meandered down to a rock outcropping that used to support a small supply dock. And by the time we’d explored the outside of the lighthouse itself, we were actually quite content with our visit. Right about then a nice Keweenaw Historical Society employee pulled in and opened up shop for the day.

At that point we happily laid down $5 each in order to search the lighthouse, peruse the grounds and poke our necks in the museums. We probably spent about an hour longer here than we’d anticipated. And quite happily, I might add.

I’m normally not much of a history buff but on the day of our visit I ended up lingering in one of the museums for a solid half an hour. One of the things that caught my eye was a letter written in 1897 by the wife of one of the lighthouse keepers. Here’s a little excerpt…

“I loved the water, having always been near it, and I loved to stand in the tower and watch the great rolling waves chasing and tumbling in upon the shore. It was hard to tell when it was the loveliest. Whether in its quiet moods or in a raging foam.”

Letter from the Keeper's Wife

It reads like a romance novel, eh? (Not that I read romance novels. No really, I don’t…) But I think anyone who’s met Lake Superior knows exactly how she felt.

Superior is a lake like no other, and as I stood by the shore and gazed up at the lighthouse tower, I pictured the keeper’s wife caring for the lantern on a dark and stormy night, as Mother Nature’s gusts slammed Superior’s waters into that very shoreline on which I stood.

Not bad for “just another lighthouse tour.” That’ll teach me.

To see more photos of the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse, click here to access my Facebook page and then and then browse to the “Eagle Harbor Lighthouse” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom Line: The Eagle Harbor Lighthouse is a must see if you’re at all interested in lighthouses, the history of the U.P., or scenic views of Lake Superior.

Other things to note: Open mid-June to early October. Noon to 5:00 or 10:00 to 5:00 depending on the month and day (Longer hours in July and August). $5.00/each for adults, children are free.

Website: www.keweenawhistory.org/Sites/Lighthouse.html

Phone: (906) 289-4990

Location: As you enter Eagle Harbor, follow the signs from M-26 to “Lighthouse/Museum.”

To see the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse’s location on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Next up >> #14 – Fall in Love with the Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore

Previous << #12 – Stay at the Bella Vista Motel & Cottages in Copper Harbor

View from the deck of the Isle Royale House

If you’re looking for a budget friendly way to experience the tip of the Keweenaw while still getting a quality room, I’d start at the Bella Vista Motel in Copper Harbor.

It’s right next to the Isle Royale Ferry and walking distance from everywhere in town. And although US 41 cuts through the heart of Copper Harbor, you’ve got some breathing room between you and the highway so traffic isn’t an issue.

The tidy, vintage inspired motel rooms and cozy cottages can all be had for spring rates of about $50 to $60 per night, and summer rates ranging from roughly $65 – $85 per night depending on the size of the room and whether or not you want a view.

Deck on the Bella Vista's Isle Royal House

My wife, daughter and I arrived at the Bella Vista on a sunny Friday afternoon a few weeks ago and were pleasantly surprised with what we found.

It was our first time visiting Copper Harbor and I’d rung up Mike (Jukuri, he and his wife Judy own and operate the place) the day before to see what he had available. A little cottage would have been cool but Mike suggested one of the rooms in the “Isle Royale House” because I wanted a queen bed and the available cottages just had doubles.

(For the record, cottage #8 has a fireplace, a little fire pit out front and more privacy than the rest of the cottages. It also costs a little more, but my wife and I agreed we’d try to reserve that one for our next Copper Harbor stay. My hunch is that it gets booked far in advance.)

A few of the Bella Vista's cottages

The Bella Vista turned out to be the perfect place for us. We walked to the Laughing Loon gift shop, the Gaslight General Store and The Mariner North, rode our bikes back and forth to Fort Wilkins State Park a few times and had a very relaxing weekend in and around Copper Harbor.

I’ll get deeper into Copper Harbor and everything to do around the area in future posts, but for now wanted to offer one good option for a place to crash when exploring the Keweenaw.

To see more photos of the Bella Vista Motel, click here to access my Facebook page and then browse to the “Bella Vista” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom Line: The Bella Vista Motel in Copper Harbor, MI is a solid, inexpensive home base for exploring the tip of the Keweenaw.

Other things to note: No pets. No smoking. Free Wi-FI. Only the cottages have coffeemakers. Free coffee and ice are also available in the office. Open May through mid October.

Location: 180 Sixth Street Copper Harbor, MI 49918

Website: http://www.bellavistamotel.com

Phone: (877) 888-8439

To see the Bella Vista Motel’s location on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Next >>#13 – Step into the 19th Century at the Eagle Harbor Lighthouse

Previous << #11 – Estivant Pines, Like the California Redwoods, but closer!

This tree even makes me look small, and I’m 6’4″!

The Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary

Have you seen the California Redwoods? No? Well, me neither but that’s okay because we have 500 year old, 125 foot tall pine trees right here in the Upper Peninsula!

The Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary is a short drive from downtown Copper Harbor, up a road that can be rough at times but not so rough that you’d need four wheel drive.

I’d heard it’s a “must see” and, though we were ready to drive back to Iron Mountain after a few days in the Keweenaw, and my infant daughter was getting cranky, I really wanted to see the pines. And I’m glad we did! But the little side jaunt wasn’t without its hiccups.

First of all, the mosquitos were bad. Worse than normal. Worse than “bad for the U.P.” bad. We’d sprayed ourselves down with standard issue bug spray (30% Deet) before venturing into the woods, and next time I visit I’m bringing the thunder! (ie. 100% Deet) I’ll also be wearing long sleeves and a hat.

Because the bugs were out, my wife and I decided to strap our daughter in the stroller (because it has a bug screen). That idea turned out to be less than stellar.

As we pointed the stroller toward the trailhead and readied ourselves to see some giant pines, one of the first things we saw was a boardwalk over a marshy area. “Great!,” we thought. “This should be a piece of cake hike with the stroller.”

Not so much. About halfway in we realized this is not a stroller friendly trail. We should have done a little more research (or inquired at the visitors center right in town) before just assuming we could push that thing through the woods.

But being that we’re both fairly stubborn and had come that far, we decided to stick it out. After all, we bought this stroller for “off-roading” and wanted to put it to the test. (My wife would later curse our stubbornness while navigating said stroller through ankle deep mud to skirt between a two-ton boulder and a dead-fall pine.)

They go up, and up, and up…

You’ve got the option to take a couple different loops, the Cathedral Loop or the Memorial loop. And then there’s the “Fallen Giant” trail which is a very cool sounding, offshoot. The sign for the Fallen Giant Trail says: “This unmaintained trail crosses a swamp and a river. Recommended only for experienced hikers with proper gear.”

Sounds cool, right?

The well-marked (and well worn) trails helped us stay on the right path and out of the news. (“Hikers lost in the Keweenaw,” anyone?)

I’d be lying if I said our enjoyment wasn’t dampened a bit by our lack of preparation and planning for this little hike, but I’m definitely still glad we did it and those ancient pines, though scattered throughout the forest, are truly something to behold. “The last stand of virgin pines in Michigan,” is what I’ve heard this area called.

But it’s not just the pines in the spotlight here; because all of this is virgin forest many other trees have had the chance to reach that “larger than life” status, too. All things considered, I’m going to name this one of my “must see” places in the U.P. and will definitely be back for another visit!

To see more photos of the Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary, click here to access my Facebook page and then and then browse to the “Estivant Pines” photo album.

Bottom Line: I would absolutely recommend that you check out Estivant Pines. I would also recommend that you bring strong bug spray, and don’t even think about bringing a stroller.

Time Required: 45 minutes to 2 hours.

How to Get There: At the Copper Harbor Visitors Center on US-41, turn right and drive three miles, following the signs to Estivant Pines. The road is a little rough, so I’d recommend not trying to take your Harley up there.

To see the Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary’s location on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Next >> #12 – Stay at the Bella Vista Motel & Cottages in Copper Harbor

Previous << #10 – Discover Sable Falls