Looking up the run “Shanty Girl.”

Blackjack Ski Resort will probably surprise you.

Along with Big Powderhorn Mountain Resort and Indianhead Mountain Resort, Blackjack is nestled in “big snow country”, just east of Ironwood, Michigan and minutes away from those two other great ski hills.

With 5 lifts, 26 trails, a 465 foot vertical drop and lots of great powder, Blackjack should be a must stop on any intermediate to advanced skier’s trip to the western Upper Peninsula.

Looking for Powder? They’ve got it.

According to their mountain manager, Brad, who was kind enough to show me around the mountain, they “tend to cater to a more advanced skier.” I’d say we found that to be true, as they left the fresh powder from the night before on the hill all day.

They also have a few non-groomed runs that accumulate power all year and are a blast to ski if you like being knee deep in powder.

Prepped and read for apres-ski.

But Beginners will be Just Fine

My wife, very much a beginning skier this year, went skiing for the first time in over fifteen years this year at Blackjack. I got her a lesson and she hit the bunny hill with one of Blackjack’s great ski instructors.

After two hours, she was skiing the beginner and intermediate runs with no trouble at all!

My Experience at Blackjack

My wife and I arrived at Blackjack a little before Noon on a Friday in late January. The hill wasn’t very busy, and when we met up with our friends they said they skied on fresh power all morning and pretty much had the run of the hill. (Later on in the day more people showed up, but it was still far from crowded.)

Eating and Drinking at Blackjack

We had lunch upstairs in the bar area and from what I could tell everyone was pleased with what they ordered. I had fish tacos, which were better than I expected them to be.

And though we didn’t partake, I was told Blackjack has a better than average après ski that includes live music and sometimes goes well into the evening. From the balloons they had suspended in a net over the stage, I’d say they take definitely care about the post ski party.

Onto the Hill

As I mentioned above, my wife hadn’t been skiing in years. So, she started her day with a two-hour lesson. She enjoyed the lesson and said it really helped her learn the right way to ski, as she was never really taught how when she was younger.

Meanwhile, I hit just about every run, from beginner to expert, and was really impressed with what I saw. Along with the slow and steady groomed hills that are common at most Upper Peninsula ski hills, I was surprised to see the un-groomed power laden trails on the west side of the hill.

All in all, everyone in our group was impressed with Blackjack and we’ll definitely be making this a regular stop on our annual western Upper Peninsula ski trip.

Bottom Line: Blackjack Ski Resort is a very worthwhile stop on any western Upper Peninsula ski adventure, especially if most people in your group are beginner to advanced skiers.

Other Things to Note: Blackjack appears to have the lowest priced lift tickets in the area.

To see more photos of Blackjack Ski Resort, visit the “Blackjack Ski Resort” album on my Facebook page.

Address: N11251 Blackjack Rd. Bessemer, MI 49911

Phone: (906) 229-5115

Website: http://www.skiblackjack.com/

My wife, heading down Voyager’s Highway, a fun beginner run.

Even though it may not be as well known as Big Powderhorn Resort, Indianhead Mountain is easily one of the best ski hills in the Upper Peninsula.

Fun Fact: You Start Out On Top

One cool thing about Indianhead is that the parking lot and main lodge are at the top of the mountain, so your first trip of the day is down the hill instead of up the ski lift.

The resort boasts three bars, two restaurants, on site lodging, 7 lifts, 30 runs and a 540 foot vertical drop.

Eating and Drinking at Indianhead Mountain

As you might expect, the lodge offers both the option to hang out and bring in your own food in a fairly large area full of tables, as well as several other dining options.

The Sky Bar

We ate (and had a bloody mary) at the Skybar, a nicely done bar/lounge area with a terrific view of the hill. The Skybar has been renovated recently and features live music on Saturday nights.

An Indianhead employee said “Some people only make one run… down to the Red Dog.”

The Red Dog Saloon

In addition to the Skybar is the Red Dog Saloon, a bar and cafeteria at the bottom of the hill. The Red Dog seems to be a pretty popular place for those who decide to spend the afternoon in the bar instead of on the hill, while the Skybar seemed to be more for people who wanted to grab a bite or a drink and then hit the hill again.

Other Spots

Along with the above, Indianhead also has The Lodge Restaurant and Dudley’s Saloon. I’ve yet to check these out, but they describe The Lodge as “featuring stakes, chops and seafood” and Dudley’s as “Indianhead’s center of nightlife and a great way to relax after a day of winter fun.” More on both of those in future posts.

My Experience at Indianhead

On the Hill

I’ve skied Indianhead a few times, and had a great experience each time. The hill has plenty of runs for advanced skiers but also has a wide variety of runs for beginning and intermediate skiers. Yes, “it’s got something for everyone.”

The deck of the Skybar is a great place for a photo op. (Pictured here is my wife and I.)

For example, my wife was a total beginning skier when we went this winter, but she did great and had a blast. Meanwhile, some of our advanced skier friends were hitting the black diamond runs and really enjoying there day too. I stuck to the middle and skied both the beginner and intermediate runs my wife was on and still really enjoyed it.

And if you’re into terrain parks, they’ve go ta great one.

At the Skybar

We’ve eaten at the Skybar a couple times and the food was “okay.” Next time we may bring our own lunch. However, the view from the Skybar definitely make it worth checking out.

At the Red Dog

My wife and I stopped into the Red Dog for a coffee and a bloody mary (and to warm up) and enjoyed the place. The view from the dining area is looking up the hill and at one of the ski lifts, so it makes an interesting place to grab a snack or a drink and warm up. They do also have a mini cafeteria but we haven’t eaten here yet.

Bottom Line: Indianhead Mountain Resort is one of the Midwest’s “must ski” resorts. From bars, restaurants and on-hill lodging to a wide variety of runs for everyone, it’s got something for everyone.

Other Things to Note: Indianhead Mountain is within a five-minute drive of both Blackjack Ski Resort and Big Powderhorn Mountain, which can make for a great weekend of skiing! Also, a “hill hopper” pass is available that will let you ski at either Indianhead or Big Powderhorn.

To see more photos of Indianhead Mountain, visit the Indianhead Mountain Resort  album on my Facebook page.

Address: 500 Indianhead Rd. Wakefield, MI 49968

Phone: (800) 346-3426

Website: http://www.indianheadmtn.com

The menu board at the Upper Crust Deli

Lunch at the Upper Crust Deli

Back when I wrote about “Manistique’s Best Kept Secret,” I mentioned The Upper Crust Café Bakery and Deli. It really is a wonderful place that you should get familiar with. Trust me on this one.

Located in the Trader’s Point area of Manistique (right on the river), The Upper Crust Deli is one of those bright open air bakeries where the smell of fresh bread  lingers in the air and the full menu is sketched out on a chalkboard overhead.

Manistique was a booming lumber area back in the day and the minimalist décor of the Upper Crust pulls from that history. A few cool photos from the glory days hang below an old two-man saw.

As you might expect, the bread at the Upper Crust Deli is baked fresh daily and then used on all of their sandwiches. Among other things, they also make sourdough soup bowls and delectable garlic Parmesan oyster crackers. Honestly, there isn’t a thing on the menu at this place I don’t want to try.

Oh, and for you vegetarian and gluten free folks, they’ve got more than a few options that mesh with your dietary requirements.

This sandwich (kind of like a reuben, but not) was awesome!

My Experience at the Upper Crust Deli

On my most recent visit to the Upper Crust I had a Reuben-like specialty sandwich and a cup of clam chowder with a side of the aforementioned homemade oyster crackers. My friend had what looked like the worlds greatest grilled cheese sandwich and a cup of tomato soup. The presentation was above what I expected from a place with “deli” in it’s name and everything tasted awesome.

Unfortunately for us Yoopers, it’s not often that you stumble upon a place up here that delivers consistently excellent food. The Upper Crust Café Bakery and Deli is definitely one of those places, however, and well worth stopping in for lunch next time you pass through Manistique!

Bottom Line: The Upper Crust Bakery and Deli serves up a mean lunch. If you’re hungry and anywhere near Manistique, MI, seek out this place and your stomach will thank you.

Address: 375 Traders Point Drive Manistique, MI 49854

Website: wix.com/lsmith09/upper-crust

Phone: (906) 341-2253

For more photos of the Upper Crust Cafe Bakery and Deli, visit the Upper Crust album on my Facebook page.

Other things to note: This is mainly a lunch place. I don’t believe they have dinner hours.  Also, if you feel like doing a little wine tasting while in the area, the Mackinac Trail Winery is about a minute way, just on the other side of the river. If you’re visiting Kitch iti Kippi, the Upper Crust isn’t too far away.

Midtown Bakery from the street

Visiting during the winter months is my favorite. When it’s dark earlier in the evening, the dim lights and fogged windows in Negaunee’s Midtown Bakery are exactly what winter should feel like. Especially before the holidays, the decorations in the bakery complete the feeling. There’s something about the colorful fence decorations inside the bakery and the mismatched table and chairs that come together for a no-judgment zone full of personality, in the middle of the somewhat drab downtown area. Especially from the outside, the bright blue building is hard to miss.

The best part about Midtown is available year round: the food. It wasn’t until I started going to Midtown that I tried a Peppadew, which is a spicy mix between a pepper and a tomato. Their Peppadew sandwich is my favorite, and I get it every time I go. Always with a side of coleslaw. When I go with friends, though, they prove that no matter what you get it’s always delicious. In fact, recently I went with a friend who has a gluten-free diet, and she was pleasantly surprised by how accommodating Midtown was for her dietary restrictions. She said, “It’s like being able to eat normally at a restaurant,” something that she isn’t able to do so often.

And when you’re done eating a sandwich or salad, you must save room for dessert. The dessert counter at Midtown is vast with their “almost famous cheesecake”; plenty of cookies; and, in the summer, ice cream sandwiches made with homemade cookies and a layer of chocolate ganache.

Pro tip: The peanut butter chocolate chip cookies are always a safe choice if you can’t make up your mind.

For me, it’s worth the twenty-minute drive from Marquette. The atmosphere in Midtown is what I look forward to after a long work week. Everyone who works there is friendly, always calling hello when I walk in the door or chatting me up about my week before my food is ready. There aren’t many places that are so relaxed: you don’t have to pay right away, only after you’ve eaten and considered dessert options.

Another example of the friendly atmosphere is how often they feature local artwork or jewelry. Looking around the bakery is like getting a glimpse of the creative people in the area, especially with the number of postings for local events that cover the wooden walls that divide the room.

The inside is just as bright and full of character as the outside.

Midtown’s deliciousness isn’t just found in Negaunee. Their cookies are available at Border Grill locations in Marquette and Negaunee, and Midtown is also largely a catering company making wedding cakes or food for other occasions.

The atmosphere at Midtown Bakery is part of the reason why I had my post-college graduation lunch there, and my family and I enjoyed a long meal and a delicious white cake with raspberry butter cream filling and chocolate frosting. Since then, my parents continue to ask whether I’ve been to Midtown recently. I always feel lucky to be at Midtown because you can tell that it’s such a community and personal effort, and I feel like I’ve been welcomed into that family with open arms.

Bottom line: There’s something for everyone at Midtown Bakery in Negaunee. It’s a pretty simple place but the warmth of the people who work there and the quality of the food make it my favorite place to go.

Other things to note: Negaunee is often visited for quality antique shopping, with stores like Lowenstein’s Antique Marketplace and the Old Bank Building. It’s easy to make a day of perusing the antique shops and then getting a bite to eat at Midtown.

Address: Midtown is located at 317 Iron Street in Negaunee and its phone number is 906-475-0064. Check them out on their Facebook page.

Trader’s Point – Manistique’s Best Kept Secret

This is how the signs for Trader’s Point look up close.

You see, I recently stumbled upon a little spot in Manistique I never knew existed. This surprised me, because I’ve driven through the town nearly 200 times. (I went to college at CMU and Manistique was on the way.)

The good people of Manistique aren’t trying to hide this place by any means. They’ve even got signs out with big arrows pointing you toward some really cool stuff.

The problem is that the signs are all a little bit off U.S. 2, and as you pass by them unknowingly you’re most likely eyeing up the Shell station ahead and glancing at your fuel gauge because you know it could be miles before the next signs of civilization. (And you’d be right about that.)

For more nearly 200 trips through Manistique, I was that guy.

Don’t be that guy.

…And this is how they actually look when you’re driving by. (See them there, the little signs on the right?)

Here’s what you do:

Just after you go over the bridge for the Manistique River (if you’re coming from the east) or just before you go over the bridge (if you’re coming from the west), turn south (that’s toward Lake Michigan if you’re directionally challenged like me) onto Trader’s Point Drive.

You’re now on a road that looks like it goes absolutely nowhere. Keep driving. Turn right on the first paved road, which also looks like it goes nowhere, and all of a sudden you’ll very much be somewhere. You’ll be at Trader’s Point.

So what the heck is Trader’s Point?

Trader’s Point is location on the Manistique River that houses a few cool small businesses. Among them are:

• The Upper Crust Café & Deli
• Trader’s Point Antique Mall
• Tamarack Books & Toys
• The Lake Effect Art Gallery

When I visited Trader’s Point I had lunch at the Upper Crust Deli and the moment I walked in I began kicking myself for not knowing about this place on my countless car rides between the central U.P. and CMU. It’s awesome.

The view of Trader’s Point as seen from the Mackinac Trails winery.

I also spent a few minutes perusing the wares at the Lake Affect Art Gallery and was really impressed by all the cool stuff. Everything was reasonably priced, too!

I’ll have more on those places soon, but for now just know that when you’re driving along the seemingly endless stretch of road that is U.S. 2 between the Mackinac Bridge and Escanaba, Trader’s Point in Manistique is an excellent place to get out, stretch your legs and grab a bite to eat if you’re in the mood.

Bottom Line: The shops (and restaurant) at Trader’s Point in Manistique make an excellent stop on that long stretch of U.S. 2 between Escanaba and the Mackinac Bridge.

Other Things to Note:

The Mackinac Trail Winery is directly across the river from Trader’s point, and also well worth checking out if you’re at all into wine.

Address and phone for The Upper Crust Café & Deli: 375 Traders Point Drive Manistique, MI 49854 (906) 341-2253

How to get there? Just west of the Manistique River, turn south onto Trader’s Point Road then take the first right.

To view more photos of Trader’s Point (including “photo directions”), click here to visit the Trader’s Point photo album on my Facebook page.

Published in the Manistique Pioneer Tribune in 1929, this photo shows the first raft to be guided by a wire cable stretched across the spring.

Kitch-iti-kipi: The Big Spring of the North

Kitch-iti-kipi (aka “Big Spring”) in Palms Book State Park is unlike any other attraction in the Upper Peninsula.

Just eleven miles north of U.S. 2 outside of Manistique, MI this 300 foot long by 40 foot deep natural spring has been a local claim to fame for more than a century. Some of the first settlers of the area floated over the spring on a primitive raft and local residents still come here to kick back. Nowadays, though, Kitch-iti-kipi is also the biggest tourist attraction in the area, and for good reason.

The bottom seems to glow with a light emerald green color as about 10,000 gallons of water per minute flow out from fissures in the limestone underneath the spring. As the water rushes out of the spring’s floor, sand bursts upward and then falls somewhere else, which means the floor of the spring is always changing.

The crystal clear water is filled with huge trout and as you float across the spring, with fish swimming below you and birds chirping in the surrounding trees, it almost feels like you’re on a Hollywood movie set. Interpretive signs on the shoreline show photos of what it was like “back in the day.”

History:

Kitch-iti-kip wasn’t always this pristine. It took the passion of a local businessman named John I. Bellaire and the cooperation of the state of Michigan and the Palms Book Land Company to turn it into the wonderful state park it is today.

Here are a few excerpts from the interpretive signs at Kitch-iti-kipi that I found interesting:

You could say the current raft is quite an improvement!

“When Europeans first arrived in the upper Great Lakes, the Ojibwa called the Big Spring Kitch-iti-kipi. The word is said to have many possible meanings including: The Great Water; The Blue Sky I See; The Roaring, Bubbling Spring; and others. Whatever its name, Kitch-iti-kipi has drawn curious sightseers for decades.”

“The Manistique Tribune reported in the spring of 1910 that “the North Shore Lumber Company of Thompson had gone to the expense of placing a big raft on the “Big Spring” capable of carrying forty people.”

“Mr. John I. Belaire moved to Manistique from the roaring lumber town of Seney around 1920. As a well-known and respected figure, Bellaire’s passion for the spring, and desire to see it properly cared for, earned him much of the credit for its preservation as a Michigan State Park. Bellaire later recalled:

“The first time I saw the spring it was not more than a black hole mostly covered by fallen trees. A lumber camp (Camp 22) in the vicinity threw their rubbish into it. I could have purchased the land myself, but instead I made the contacts to have the State acquire it.”

“It was John M. Bush, land agent of the Cleveland Cliffs Iron Company who volunteered to approach the executors of the Book and Palms estate of Detroit with a proposal to make the Big Spring a State Park. Apparently, the deal was promoted by businessman John I. Bellaire, who ran a five and dime store in Manistique. Members of the Book and Palms families eagerly fell in with the suggestion and gave the property to the state. The deal transferred almost 90 acres to the State for one dollar. The deed stipulated that the property was “to be forever used as a public park, bearing the name Palms Book State Park.”

Hundreds of trout fill the spring and are fun to watch.

“After the original 90 acre land gift from the Palms Book Land Company in 1928, the State obtained several more parcles through tax delinquency and land exchange. By 1940 Palms Book State Park protected 257 acres around Michigan’s largest natural spring.”

“In the early 1930’s Jon Bellaire again became active in the park improvement. Up to this time the road to the park was described by Bellaire as a “meandering pathway, wrought with hazards.” After reporting “considerable trouble with the highway department”, the present Michigan highway M-149 was constructed.

At that time, telephone poles paralleled every road, including the new M-149. Bellaire painted white rings around each pole from Manistique to the Big Spring so anyone inquire about the spring could be told to “follow the ringed telephone poles.”

My Visit to the Spring

When I visited Kitch-iti-kipi in late September, the leaves of the trees were showing a little color and there were only a couple cars in the parking lot. As I walked the short path down to the spring, it felt like I was entering a place that time forgot.

Aside from a few birds chirping and the occasional squeak of the “big wheel” on the raft, the scene was silent as a half dozen people leaned over the edge of the raft and peered into the water.

“It’s so clear,” a young girl said to her mother as we watched from the shore. “

That fish is sooo huge” said her big brother.

“Sshhh!” she replied and jabbed him in the ribs, “I’m trying to see.”

I had to laugh at that one.

Onto the Raft I Go

The opening in the center of the raft makes for excellent viewing.

Though you can see quite a bit from a viewing platform on the shore, the best way to experience Kitch-iti-kipi is on the large floating barge provided by the state. So, I hopped aboard.

It works like this: The raft (maybe 10’ x 20’ or so) is guided by a large metal cable, and propelled by a big wheel that someone on the barge must turn to move the raft ever so slowly forward, and then equally slowly back to the dock.

The raft is very easy to operate, but if you want to gaze into the spring the whole time I’d recommend NOT being the one turning the wheel. There will almost always be other people on the raft, though, so the polite thing to do would be to take turns so everyone gets a chance to have a look. (I’d heard something about a park employee being on hand to “drive” the raft, but no one was there on the day I visited, and I was told by a local who knows the area well that it’s up to the park visitors to man the raft.)

Luckily, I was able to peer over the edge and take photos the whole time. I even spotted a shiny silver coin way at the bottom, forty feet below the surface. The water is crazy clear, the fish are huge, and the setting is serene. Kitch-iti-kipi is a must see.

Bottom line: Kitch-iti-kipi is truly something to see. The water is so clear that you can see to the bottom of this forty foot natural spring with ease, and the huge fish swimming around really add to the experience.

One of the shady picnic areas.

Other things to note:

• Since the 45 degree water flows all year long, the spring doesn’t freeze over and can be enjoyed in winter as well!
• A park store that sells concessions is right off the parking lot, and there are a few small picnic tables scattered under shady trees where you could have a really pleasant picnic lunch.
• I’d highly recommend picking up a lunch to go from The Upper Crust Deli in Manistique (375 Traders Point Drive – (906) 341-2253) and then picnicking at Big Spring.

How to get there? For as popular as Kitch-iti-kipi is nowdays, you would think the path to get there would be well marked all the way from the highway. It’s not. Here’s what you do:

About 5.4 miles west of Manistique turn onto M-149 north. Drive for 2.7 miles then turn left to stay on M-149 north. Drive 1 mile then turn right on County Road 455 (The sign says “Westshore -455”). Drive 4.3 miles then turn right on Sawmill Road and follow the signs to Palms Book State Park.

To view more photos of Kitch-iti-kipi, click here to visit the Kitch-iti-kipi photo album on my Facebook page.