Things To Do In The U.P.

Walk in the water to avoid the rocks. Or keep your shoes on, but what fun is that?

Whitefish point is one of those “end-of-the-earth” type places. Look at a map of the U.P. and to the north of Tahquamenon Falls State Park you’ll see a shark fin shaped point stretching toward Canada.

That’s Whitefish Point.

In fact, this is one of the few spots along the shore of Lake Superior where (on a clear day) you can actually see Canada. Ontario, in this case, and it’s about twenty miles away.

The Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum is the main attraction here, but if you walk past the museum and toward the lake, a nice little boardwalk will lead your feet straight to the sand. It’s a pretty rocky beach overall with a few sandy spots, one of those being near the boardwalk, so most people seem to congregate there.

If you really do want that “end of the earth” feeling of solitude, just take your shoes off, let your bare feet greet Lake Superior and keep walking toward the tip of the point where you’ll find far fewer people, if anyone at all.

My wife and I did just that after our Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum tour. I’d climbed the lighthouse tower, seen the tip of the point and wanted to check it out. So we did. It’s was a slow fifteen or twenty minute walk, past kite fliers and agate hunters, until we reached the tip of the tip. We waded in the shallows of Lake Superior while admiring the thousands of gorgeous stones that blanket the beach.

A large freighter passed by as we walked, which was something to see. (The size of those things never ceases to amaze me). And as you may have guessed by the placement of the Shipwreck Museum, the open water beyond Whitefish Point is one of the most treacherous shipping routes in Lake Superior. Many ships have met their match here, most notably The Edmund Fitzgerald.

This sandy trail from the parking lot bypasses the boardwalk.

We really enjoyed our time in this area. After checking out Lower Tahquamenon Falls in the morning, we had lunch at Brown’s Fish House and then drove up to the Shipwreck Museum, which is only about ten minutes north of Paradise, MI. After our walk on the beach we drove south to check out Upper Tahquamenon Falls and the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery, which made for a pretty full day!

To see more photos of Whitefish Point, click here to access my Facebook page and then and then browse to the “Whitefish Point” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Bottom Line: Whitefish Point is a gorgeous stretch of shoreline, perfect for that oh so cliché (but still fun) “long walk on the beach.”

Time required: A half hour to several hours, depending how long you want to hang out. Some people pack a cooler and make a day of it.

Other things to note: Because this is the Lake Superior shore, it can be (and often is) cool here. Hope for warm weather but come prepared for a chilly breeze. This is also a major bird watching area, if you’re into that sort of thing.

Map: To see Whitefish Point’s location on my map of the U.P., click here.

Previous: Thing #16 – Hike Bare Bluff

Albert Einstein said “Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute, and it seems like an hour. Sit with a pretty girl for an hour, and it seems like a minute. THAT’s relativity.”

A foot bridge leads you over the Pine Creek

Well I’ve got a new one for you. Drive five miles out of Iron Mountain, hike a few steps up a steep hill and you’ll feel like you’re a thousand miles from anywhere. That’s Rock Dam. (1)

And, really, this is a great example of why I started this mission, to find places like Rock Dam. I’d heard about it, but through all the years I’ve spent in the Upper Peninsula, I’d never once been there. Boy was I missing out.

It’s an off the beaten path spot, known mostly as a small set of rapids that lead down to a restful little swimming hole. But hike up the hill a bit (on a rough “unofficial” trail) and you’ll be rewarded with first class views of ginormous (it’s a real word, I checked) rock bluffs.

My wife and I did a short hike at Rock Dam this Spring. A couple small footbridges allow you to cross over the meandering Pine Creek, check out the little waterfall and head up to the trail.

The trail then climbs pretty quickly but levels off almost as quick and then runs down the edge of a rock face. This little jaunt allows several stellar views if you’re not afraid to get a little cozy with the edge.

Trail markings keep you on track

This is all public land. 90,000 or so acres from what I’ve heard. Maybe this place will get enough attention to warrant a state sponsored viewing platform someday. Until then you’ll have to settle for steadying yourself against one of the large hardwoods that grow thick on top of the ridge. Just make sure your footing is sound! And if you fall, please don’t sue me.

And if you feel like a longer hike, well, just keep going past the spot with the pretty views. Eventually you’ll end up on the opposite rock bluff looking back at where you started.

At some point you might feel like you’re lost in the woods. Right then I’d recommend that you stop and look for the blue trail markings. The trail is marked, but it’s also a small brushy trail and easy to miss sometimes if you’re not familiar with it.  If you’re prone to wandering (mind, body, spirit… whatever) you might want to bring a GPS and a compass.

The trail runs several miles until you meet up once again with the Pine Creek. At that point I usually turn around and head back. And with all the ups and downs, by the time I get back to my car I’m happy to be done but thankful for a great hike and a good workout.

View from the trail

Bottom Line: The Rock Dam trail is an off the beaten path “unofficial” trail that’s both challenging and rewarding. Recommended for experienced hikers only, or find someone who’s been there and use them for a guide. And after your hike, the pool formed below the falls is a great spot for a swim!

*** NOTE – Four wheel drive vehicles are recommended in the Spring as Rock Dam Road can get seriously muddy. In Summer and Fall most cars should be able to get out there.

To see more photos of Rock Dam, click here to access my Facebook page and then and then browse to the “Rock Dam” photo album. (You’ll need to “like” the page if you haven’t already)

Time Required: 20 minutes to half a day.

How to get there:

Drive East out of Iron Mountain and turn right on M-95 toward Marquette – about 3.2 miles from downtown. Drive 3.7 miles North on M-95 and then turn right on Sportsman’s Club Road. Drive 2.5 miles down Sportsman’s club road and make a right on Carney Lake Road. Drive .6 miles down Carney Lake Road then make a right on Rock Dam Road. Then drive 1.2 miles and make a left onto an unmarked road. The only marking is an old road sign post sticking out of the ground, and even that is hard to spot. Yes, you need to navigate a couple gravel roads, but it’s only 10 miles from downtown Iron Mountain.

To see Rock Dam’s location on my map of the Upper Peninsula, click here.

Next >> #10! Discover Sable Falls

Previous << #8 – Eat Fresh at Brown Fisheries Fish House

1)       Those of you who’ve traveled to the U.P. from the city (2) may already feel like you’re in the middle of nowhere. In that case, head to Rock Dam and you’ll feel like you’re even further removed. If you’re lucky, you might even lose cell signal.
2)       Chicago, Milwaukee or anywhere large enough to have a “rush hour” (3) around 5:00.

3)       A term unfamiliar to most Yoopers but quite often cause for city dwellers to curse and threaten to move “up north.”

Have you been to Rock Dam? Or does it look like someplace you might want to check out? Please feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below!